Veteran journalist Dan Abrams was approached to invest in a winery in central coastal California in the early 2000s but ultimately passed on it. Years later, he became interested in areas local to New York, which led him to the East End of Long Island.
“I became incredibly impressed by the potential of the North Fork,” he told Crain Currency. “I became friends with Charles Massoud, the owner of Paumanok Vineyard. And when he saw a winery come on the market, he called me and asked, ‘Were you serious about buying a vineyard?’ ”
Abrams would eventually sign a deal to purchase a vineyard known as Laurel Lake. He recognized the potential for the property and the grapes that were being produced and saw the need for a more elevated concept on the East End.
“It’s physically one of the most beautiful wineries out there, with a tasting room that overlooked the vineyard. And the fact that it’s one of the oldest vineyards, it had such potential for the quality of the wine.”
Abrams’ Ev&Em vineyards opened its doors in 2021, with the moniker paying homage to his two children, Everett and Emilia.
To execute on his dream, Abrams created a team of wine and hospitality leaders. He brought on a sommelier and wine educator, Vanessa Price, who is now the managing partner of Ev&Em; as well as Kristen Curcie, a former South Fork Wölffer Estate alumna who is now the general manager. The team’s goal was simple: Create a luxury vineyard in the heart of the North Fork.
Price has led both the external and internal transformation of the property, overseeing the winemaking to elevate the quality produced as well as the quiet luxury aesthetic and décor of the space. The team has upgraded the farming and winemaking equipment, planted new grape varietals and been selective about the grapes they’re using, Price said.
“We’re also the only winery on Long Island that has certifications from both the Long Island Sustainable Winegrowing and New York Wine & Grape Foundation,” she added.
The 2022 vintage of Ev&Em is the first production that has its own stamp. “2021 was the first year we were there,” Abrams explained. “It has vastly exceeded my expectations because the quality of wine is so important to me. I’m not interested in making wines for the masses. I want to make wine that I want to drink.”
The vineyard produces three wine collections in total — the Ev&Em, ev&em² and Reserve — all showcasing an array of French grape varietals.
As for what the future of this business means to him, Abrams sees this as a long-term play and part of his family’s legacy. “I would love to have one of my kids take over the vineyard down the road.”